Для молодих людей, які вже звикли до великої кількості продуктових мереж, ця назва може здатися дикою. Але ні, жодної схожості з уболівальниками московського «Спартака» (якщо хтось продовжив ряд із м’ясною гастрономією) тут немає. А от з самими мешканцями Москви — є.
Народилося воно ще за радянських часів. Справа в тому, що різні міста проходили по різних категоріях постачання. І низька категорія означала те, що наприклад м’яса в магазині ви не знайдете, а про знамениту ковбасу можете навіть і не мріяти.
«Ковбасними» називалися поїзди, спеціально організовані місцевою владою для поїздки мешканців у великі міста регіону (або Москву) для закупівлі ковбаси та інших дефіцитних продуктів до свят. Часто такі поїзди пускали на Новий рік. Пізніше назва поширилася й на електрички — люди спеціально затарювалися в універмагах, а згодом везли добро в область. З’явилася навіть загадка-анекдот: «довгенький, зелененький, ковбасою пропах».
У випадку з Москвою впоратися можна було за вихідні, навіть якщо живеш в іншому регіоні: у п’ятницю після роботи люди сідали на потяг, вранці в суботу були вже в Москві. Цілий день вони робили покупки, увечері в суботу виїжджали зі столиці та опинялися в неділю вдома. В Україні подібні поїздки теж практикувались, здебільшого до Києва та Одеси.
Характерною рисою цього явища за СРСР було те, що їздили не тільки за продуктами. Так, вони були найчастішим «вантажем», але далеко не єдиним. Закупали і різноманітну техніку, електроніку, відеокасети, одяг, книги і навіть шпалери.
Після розпаду радянської держави все змінилося. Тепер з’явились проблеми з продовольством від того, що сільське господарство у Росії було дуже не розвиненим, і на всіх не вистачало. Навіть у Москві були проблеми з купівлею продовольчих товарів. Продовольча криза стояла дуже гостро.
Саме тоді автобуси з туристами і почали курсувати Білоруссю та Україною. Офіційно це, звичайно ж, оформлялося як культурне дозвілля трудящих або як екскурсійний рейс. На профспілкові кошти виділявся автобус, який віз народ подивитися різноманітні пам’ятки у тому чи іншому місті.
Але, звичайно, ніхто ніяких пам’яток не дивився. За кілька годин потрібно було оббігти якнайбільше магазинів, щоб повернутися додому з повними сумками. Про черги у ті часи ходив навіть анекдот:
Що викинули? За чим стоїмо?
Так Ремарка якогось дають!
А це краще чи гірше кримплена?
Не знаю, не пив!
І сміх, і гріх. Але люди і справді стояли в чергах у будь-які магазини, якщо не мали заздалегідь складеного чіткого плану, що потрібно купити. Втім, більшість гостей із сусідніх республік цілком знала що робити. Особливо багато доводилось їздити за продовольством росіянам. У них того самого м’яса чи ковбаси могло або просто не бути, або вони продавались по завищеним мінімум втричі цінам.
Таким чином, росіяни змушені були шукати шляхи вирішення своїх продовольчих проблем. Основним шляхом більшість їх бачила візит до сусідньої України. Тут в магазинах були і м’ясо, і ковбаси, і молоко і багато чого іншого. До того ж, все коштувало набагато дешевше. Окрім магазинів, увагу росіян привертали і різноманітні базари. Там купити можна було ще і при менших чергах. Втім, була і своя хитрість – оскільки базарні торговці дуже швидко бачили «не своїх», цінник відразу збільшувався.
Якщо їхали за радянським класичним рецептом – потягом, то у зворотній бік такі «туристи» викупали всі місця в купе, щоб напхати туди побільше продуктів. Виглядало це дуже смішно.
Але мешканцям Запоріжжя, як і Києва чи Харкова було не до сміху. Прибуття «ковбасних» потягів чи автобусів означало те, що з прилавок магазинів продукти будуть буквально щезати. Тому ідучи вечором з роботи, запоріжці могли зіткнутись з тим, що продуктів буквально немає, або залишилось з них небагато. Тому подібних «туристів» м’яко кажучи, не дуже любили і ставились до них з негативом.
Адже якщо туристи і робили поупки, то все брали ящиками та кілограмами. Після них в магазині залишались хіба пусті полиці. А оскільки туристів приїжджало одразу багато, то на день про якісь покупки місцеві мешканці могли просто забути. З урахуванням того, що продовольче постачання в самій Україні було не ідеальним, то іноді якісь продукти могли просто зникнути на декілька днів з продажу.
Звісно, все вищеописане не могло не призвести до зіткнень «туристів» і місцевого населення. Наприклад, одного разу місцева мешканка забігла на ринок, щоб купити продукти перед роботою. Вона попросила щоб велика черга, що вже сформувалася, пропустила її. Черга складалася з приїжджих, які пропускати жінку відмовились. Почався галас і конфлікт, який ледь вдалося припинити і він не перейшов у серйозну бійку.
Інші подібні ситуації нерідко траплялись поблизу обласної бібліотеки. На тамтешній зупинці на початку 1990-х часто зупинялись автобуси «Інтуристу», які в той буремний час теж слугували перевізниками для фанатів продовольчого туризму. У 1993 році одного разу мешканці найближчих будинків взагалі вийшли до автобусу і влаштували «розбірки». Чисельна перевага була не на боці «туристів», а міліціонерів поблизу не було. Тому ситуація була дуже вибухонебезпечною. Ситуація повторилася ще декілька разів, післятого подібні масові рейди до Запоріжжя трохи призупинились.
Згодом ситуація з продовольством покращилась, і масово на зкупки росіяни їздити припинили. Їх продовольчий туризм продовжувався лише в Харкові та Донецьку. Адже українські міста могли запропонувати більший вибір при кращій якості. До того ж, і знаходились поблизу кордону. Але це вже зовсім інша історія…
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